If the cliché fits, wear it! Wear it proudly!

Over the recent holidays, this “I’ve cooked one to many meals at home during this pandemic” foodie took his family to Roots Southern Table at Mustang Station in Farmers Branch. Throughout 2021, I enjoyed reading repeated accolades that Chef Tiffany Derry and her business partner Tom Foley we amassing in printed and digital publications. Chef Derry’s life experience helped marry her sense of warmth and inclusion, her rich family history, and her culinary signature into a magnificent addition to the Dallas food scene. The proof comes from repeat patrons who have become super fans and from reputable influencers. The Dallas Observer rates Roots as the best new restaurant of 2021. The NY Times included it on the list of the 50 “most vibrant and delicious restaurants in 2021”. Esquire Magazine rated it #4 on the Top 40 New Restaurants in the US.

Delicious and Vibrant

VIBRANT……..Tom Foley and his front of the house team are so warm and welcoming. Despite the impact that the past two years have had on the restaurant industry, the sense you get from this team is a true appreciation for our support. There is a sense that every team member wants you to feel welcome, and stress relieved. From greeter to server, to table attendant, to food expeditor, all are engaged in your experience. The dining room was neither intimate or cavernous. It was large enough to accommodate a party of 12 comfortably. This group was so comfortable, in fact, that they broke out into a wonderful rendition of Stevie Wonder’s Happy Birthday To You. The impromptu celebration was welcomed by all.

DELICIOUS…….If you are not familiar, Chef Derry was a contestant on Bravo’s Top Chef. But the “roots” of her journey to food superstardom started from humble beginnings. Like so many of us, our ancestors welcomed people to their homes with food. Such was the case for Chef. Growing up in Beaumont, her grandmother’s home was a meeting place for family and friends. The smells, the tastes, and the textures of the matriarch’s delicacies inspired Chef to share her family’s special gifts with us. She now includes her own thoughtful interpretations and and explores the new while still holding true to the essence of the dish. She differentiates family recipes from her own in a clever way on the menu; Down Home Roots and Modern Roots. One of the best finds inspired from the down home side of the menu are the stewed greens and meaty potlikker that will win over even the most hesitant. I referenced texture earlier. This is the perfect example. The greens melt in your mouth. The hot water cornbread for sopping is a must!

Between the signature duck fat fried chicken and the other over-the-top entrée choices it was hard to include an item from the Modern Roots offerings. We settled on the Charred Romanesco and were not disappointed. The crunchy romaesco was roasted perfectly and bathed in a lemon vinaigrette. An anchovy sauce imparted a nutty flavor while duck fat fried breadcrumbs crowned this perfect side bite.

But let’s get back to the chicken, shall we? After all, this selection is a must on every visit and I’ll tell you why. In today’s world where we KNOW what a healthy food choice is, it’s a special day when we decide to go down the “fried” path! We have become very selective about when we will splurge and where we will indulge in such debauchery. For fried chicken, there is no other option in DFW. Derry’s brined and perfectly breaded version is juicy, tender, and flavorful. The trouble is that you have to order for two or four people. Actually this wasn’t any trouble for our foursome. We decided to order for four and use it as an appetizer for passing similar to Chinese restaurant style dining. In this way, we were free to order other appetizers and make a selection from their world class list of entrees.

In standard fashion we overordered so that we could try as many things as possible. One highlight was the short ribs. The Roots team adopted the latest fad in cooking styles; Sous Vide. They cryo-vaced the meaty boneless ribs and immersed them in a constant hot water bath for 48 hours. The gruyere potato fondue was the perfect texture compliment to this family favorite.

Mom’s Orange Juice Butter Cakes was just what we needed to round out the evening. As we marveled at the sweetness perfection, the diners nearby began again with their rendition of Happy Birthday. I think all of us in the dining room felt like we were being treated to a very special birthday meal; the one that becomes a fond memory for all time.

We can’t wait to return and make more memories with Chef, Tom, and team.